More than a decade ago. Princess Cruises became the first line to deploy a bona fide megaship in Alaska. when in 1992 the 70,000-gross-register-ton Regal Princess began sailing the Inside Passage from Vancouver. I remember clearly my reaction when the deployment was announced: I wanted to be among the first to experience Alaska aboard the largest passenger ship to sail there. A dozen years later. Princess has again broken the size barrier--this time with two 116,000-grt vessels, the Diamond Princess and her slightly younger sister the Sapphire Princess, both newly introduced for 2004.
Princess positions these Seattle-based ships as Alaska sampler cruises, calling at three major Alaskan ports and two glaciers in a convenient roundtrip package. This itinerary is perfect for first-timers. Its close-to-home point of origin eliminates the three-hour bus ride from Seattle's SeaTac Airport to the piers in Vancouver. Its lineup of ports--Ketchikan, Juneau. Skagway--provides the perfect introduction to Alaska's gold-rush history and native culture. Glacier viewing, meanwhile, takes place in the scenic confines of Tracy Arm. But even if you're returning to Alaska for a second time (or in my case the 12th), it can still provide plenty of excitement and discovery. Alaska, I am constantly reminded always has the power to surprise.
I was lucky enough to be invited aboard for the second voyage of the Sapphire Princess, setting sail last summer under clear skies from Seattles recently opened Terminal 30. Heading north, our first full day aboard ship was spent steaming the length of British Columbia's stretch of the Inside Passage, a distance of about 600 miles. With no port-call Scheduled, it was the perfect time to attend a lecture entitled "The Maritime Discovery of Alaska," presented by Mike Moulin, the recently retired commodore Of the Princess fleet.
The commodore's presentation proved entertaining and illuminating For example, archeologists now believe that Chinese explorers may have discovered Alaska before the Russians--perhaps arriving in 1422, "It can't be proved directly," Moulin said, "but there is an Aleut oral tradition of men with short ponytails and long robes. These could only have been the Chinese."
It was equally compelling to hear Moulin's personal impressions of captaining a cruise ship in Alaska. "It's an interesting part of the world from a sailoring point of view." he said. "You have to be careful," Moulin then related how early navigators, without the aid of radar, avoided the pitfalls of narrow channels. "If you had a steam whistle, you would sound it and count--1,2,3--and see how long it took for the echo to come back to you. If you didn't have a whistle, you would just holler. You think I'm kidding, but I'm not."
This lecture was part of Princess Cruises' ScholarShip@Sea program, an eclectic lineup of activities that on this cruise numbered almost 70 different talks and workshops. Many topics were devoted to personal enrichment, such as pottery and ceramics, while others focused on the history and lore of the destination. Some, like digital photography, were offered for an extra charge ($25); others, like floral arranging or naturalist lectures, were complimentary. Most were scheduled during sea days, but a few took place while in port, which allowed local celebrities to come aboard. In Juneau, for instance, Libby Riddles, the first woman to win the Iditarod Sled Dog Race, joined the ship. In Skagway, "Buckwheat" Donahue came aboard to regale passengers with a rousing recital of Robert Service poems.
The following day presented the trip's first opportunity for a wildlife encounter. Princess employs a full-time naturalist for the duration of the cruise, who provides commentary over the public address system at scheduled intervals, pointing out the wildlife known to inhabit a scenic area or describing natural landmarks as the ship pulls in or out of port. Sometimes, however, the best wildlife encounters happen without warning. While savoring my morning coffee, a bald eagle appeared off the stern and swooped across the deck, wings fully extended in an easy glide. It was exhilarating.
Wildlife, of course, is just one reason why cruise travelers come in ever-increasing numbers to Alaska: another is the chance to gawk at a glacier. Unlike many Inside Passage itineraries that call at Glacier Bay National Park or Hubbard Glacier, this itinerary visits the aforementioned Tracy Arm. There are several reasons for this arrangement, including the extra sailing time from Seattle, the need to stop in Victoria to satisfy the requirements of the Passenger Vessel Services Act, and the limited number of entry permits for Glacier Bay.
I awoke at 5 a.m. to be sure I didn't miss the giant ship's turn into narrow Tracy Arm, a navigational feat with such a large vessel that requires some nimble maneuvering. Without a cloud in the sky, the day's first light crowned the Coast Mountains in shades of gentle gold and azure. From my cabin balcony, I watched as the forested coastline drew closer to the ship; on TV, I watched the ship's forward progress toward the head of the fjord, courtesy of the bridge cam, As we entered the fjord, tree-covered mountains soon yielded to sheer granite cliffs several hundred feet high. At the head of the fjord lay the twin Sawyer Glaciers. The south Sawyer is the more active, dropping huge chunks of ice off its face in a behavior called calving--as evidenced by the numerous ace floes in the water.
Unfortunately, ice conditions, the narrowness of the fjord, and the size of the vessel conspired to prevent the Sapphire Princess from getting close enough for an intimate view of the calving activity. "We could have gotten closer," Commodore Moulin later explained. "but it would have taken hours." However, we did get to see both glaciers--north and south--as the captain pivoted the ship to give passengers on both starboard and port balconies unobstructed views.
With more than 100 shore excursions to choose from, cruise travelers new to Alaska will enjoy an embarrassment of riches in port. If you've never been to Alaska before, you may want to go with some of the perennial favorites. These would include the cultural tour of Saxman Native Village ($48) in Ketchikan, which boasts the largest collection of totem poles to be found in one place. In Juneau, the flightseeing adventure to the Mendenhall Glacier ($199) includes a landing on the icy surface--an absolute must if you've never been in a helicopter. In Skagway, the White Pass & Yukon Route ($95) narrow-gauge railway offers a chance to get away from sea level and deep into the mountains for spectacular alpine vistas: along the way you can still see the old gold-rush trail, worn permanently into the mountainside by prospectors over a century ago.
If like me you're a returning visitor, you may want to opt for some of the more adventurous or special-interest excursions. In Juneau, for example, I signed up for the historic gold mine tour ($59). This authentic trip into the past takes passengers 400 feet deep into Mount Roberts. The tunnel was built 90 years ago, and offers a glimpse of the many shafts that honeycomb the mountain More than just a historical highlight though, this tour has a contemporary pertinence as well, since mining for silver has resumed in the Juneau area, and a proposal to re-open one of the gold mines was pending as of late 2004.
After the tour (about three hours), good shopping is available in the general store. which stocks a nice collection of unusual and mostly affordable souvenirs. There are old-time black-and-white photos reproduced as postcards, mine stock certificates imprinted on ceramic coffee mugs, and all sorts of gold keepsakes and jewelry. "I try to keep everything Alaskan-made or mining-oriented." said the owner, Beverly Harmon.
Following three Alaskan ports in rapid-fire succession, we spent another leisurely day at sea. The weather in Alaska had been unprecedented: Temperatures were running 20 to 25 degrees above normal, and the headline in the Ketchikan Daily News read, "Heat Wave Rainforest Style." By the time we returned to the waters off British Columbia, the atmosphere had returned to a more typical 57 degrees. This overcast day at sea presented the opportunity to attend another Commodore Moulin's lectures--this concerning the history of P&O Cruise. Before his talk began, passengers had just completed an origami class. "It's just wonderful, isn't it?" the commodore asked rhetorically. Some things just haven't changed, like arts & crafts. People were doing this 100 years ago."
