Whales are a common sight in Glacier Bay. But rock-climbing bears? Even the naturalist was surprised. Yet there they were, scampering about the rugged cliffs. "I don't know how they got up there," the naturalist joked, "but the better question is: How are they going to get down?"

Alaska is full of surprises, and from the rail of a cruise ship, passengers get a continuously changing view of scenery and wildlife. Shoreside, Alaska is rich in pioneer history and native culture. To help passengers understand what they're seeing, most cruise lines have some type of Alaska-oriented "life enhancement" program aboard their ships, which can be divided into three basic categories: expert, native, and celebrity. The idea, in the words of Carnival Cruise Lines' president Bob Dickinson, is to give passengers "a truly unique Alaska cruise experience."

For 2003, more than 40 ships from 16 cruise lines will ply Alaskan waters (see page 46). Big ships tend to have the greatest variety of onboard enrichment. Carnival Cruise Lines has marine biologists and wildlife specialists who edify adults, as well as "kids-only" lecturers for younger guests. Sister company Holland America Westours has a full-time naturalist on each of its seven Alaska-bound ships, plus a native "Artists-In-Residence Program" showcasing traditional native crafts, including ivory carving, basket weaving, and mask making.

Princess Cruises, meanwhile, wrote the book on Alaska: Passengers may purchase The Alaska Cruise Companion ($25), a mile-by-mile guidebook written exclusively for Princess by author Joe Upton. The line presents naturalist lectures as part of its daily schedule of activities, while kids can participate in their own enrichment program, which includes a "Junior Ranger Program" in Glacier Bay National Park. The line also has enlisted the California Science Center and the National Wildlife Federation to create additional enrichment for passengers 17 and younger.

Celebrity Cruises, for its part, has joined forces with the Nature Conservancy to create interpretive programs for its guests. Norwegian Cruise Line has incorporated Alaska-oriented programming into its "Freestyle Cruising" concept.

Small ships, too, deliver an edifying experience. American Safari Cruises has an accredited naturalist/guide on each ship. Cruise West may carry an oyster farmer, a local author, or a famous name like astronaut Buzz Aldrin, depending on the ship and itinerary. "We look for people who have an exploration background, whose personality lends itself well to our guests, and who have some relevance to the areas we'll be sailing," says Janice Walker, Cruise West director of guest programs and product development, who books speakers for the line.

Glacier Bay Cruiseline incorporates a native element into its cruises, a reflection of its ownership by a Juneau-based native corporation. "Whenever possible we hire our shareholders," says a Glacier Bay spokeswoman. The shareholders--all native Alaskans--interact with guests on a formal and informal basis depending on their jobs, she adds.

What's old is news from American West Steamboat Company, which makes its Alaska premiere in 2003. The line's ship, a historically styled paddlewheeler named Empress of the North, is under construction in a Washington shipyard and is expected to exhibit an Alaska-oriented motif in many of its public areas, lectures, entertainment, and even menus, according to Joel Perry, vice president of marketing for American West.

Some lines are decidedly academic. Lindblad Expeditions employs a range of scientific equipment, such as undersea cameras and video microscopes, to augment its naturalist presentations. Other lines with an educational emphasis include Clipper Cruise Line and Society Expeditions.

World Explorer Cruises has the most extensive enrichment program in Alaska. Four experts sail on every cruise, representing a diverse range of disciplines including biology, geology, history, and anthropology. For more in-depth study, passengers can sign up for the line's "Enhanced Learning Program." This includes seminars and field trips in small groups of 15, which gives passengers with similar interests the opportunity to bond, according to Bonnie MacLaird, vice president of marketing. The tuition for 2003 is $85 to $125, depending on the curriculum.

Other enrichment from World Explorer includes an artist-in-residence, an educational program for kids, and a special-interest lecture series presenting such topics as "Maritime Legacy of the Inside Passage" (May 9), "True Tales of Alaskan Pioneers" (May 18), "Seabirds, Shorebirds, and Raptors of Alaska" (May 27), "Native Alaskan Crafts" (June 10), and "Marine Mammal Wildlife of Alaska" (June 24).

Upscale cruise lines put their own particular spin on enrichment in Alaska. Radisson Seven Seas Cruises and Crystal Cruises host an array of geologists, historians, and naturalists. Crystal frequently designates certain Alaska sailings as theme cruises. Topics for 2003 are wine and food (June 14 and August 25), jazz (June 26), classical music (July 8), and opera (July 20).

In addition to full-time naturalists who travel with passengers, some ships bring local experts aboard when they pull into port. In Juneau, Princess features presentations by Libby Riddles, who in 1985 became the first woman to win the Iditarod sled-dog race--an annual 1,049-mile trek from Anchorage to Nome. In Skagway, the line presents performances by Steve Hites, a balladeer who sings to the tune of the Klondike Gold Rush.

Areas of exceptional natural appeal may also merit special attention. Holland America presents its "Huna Interpretive Program" when its ships enter Glacier Bay National Park. The Huna, a local tribe, have called the Glacier Bay area their home for centuries. All ships that enter Glacier Bay (which in 2003 will again host 139 calls due to an act of Congress) must offer an interpretive program, usually staffed by park-service personnel. On bigger ships, two or three rangers may come aboard, providing commentary over the ship's public-address system and mingling with passengers ondeck. They may also set up a display in one of the public rooms with maps and exhibits for viewing and interpretive books, tapes, and videos that passengers can purchase.

Passengers will find plenty of edification ashore, whether they sign up for a ship-organized excursion or explore independently. Alaska has exceptional museums, some of them small but nevertheless educational.

The Tongass Historical Museum in Ketchikan, for example, has many curious displays, but none more memorable than the Harry Truman totem pole, carved in 1951. At the bottom sits Harry Truman. In the middle is Winston Churchill. At the top is Joseph Stalin. Like other totem poles, it's a symbolic representation of a historic event or story--in this case, the Cold War.

A more famous totem, the Abe Lincoln totem pole, can be seen at Saxman Native Village, less than two miles from downtown Ketchikan and one of Alaska's most popular shore excursions. The pole is so named because an image of President Abraham Lincoln sits at the top. The pole now on display is a replica; the worn and weathered head of the original can be seen in Juneau at the Alaska State Museum, one of the best museums in all of Alaska.

Another worthwhile stop is the Juneau City Museum, which documents the gold-mining history of the Inside Passage. Altogether, the surrounding Coastal Mountains yielded $147 million worth of gold--20 times what the United States paid Russia for the territory of Alaska in 1867. Juneau's many attractions for cruise travelers begin with the Mount Roberts Tram, which whisks passengers from the docks to 1,750 feet above sea level in a matter of minutes.

Wrangell and Petersburg are smaller communities most often found on small-ship itineraries. Wrangell has more native culture, including 8,000-year-old petroglyphs, while Petersburg reflects the Norwegian origin of its founders.

Sitka has the Sheldon Jackson Museum, an exceptional repository of native artifacts. The National Park Service runs the Sitka National Historical Park--the oldest national park unit in Alaska--and the Russian Bishop's House, which dates back to the days of Russian colonial rule. St. Michael's Russian Orthodox Cathedral is Sitka's most recognizable landmark. It was faithfully rebuilt in 1976 after the original structure was destroyed by a fire. Sitka's raptor center, with its dual mission of education and rehabilitating birds of prey, is the most famous in Alaska.

Haines, meanwhile, has the headquarters and museum of the American Bald Eagle Foundation. Located in the "Valley of the Eagles," Haines is one of the best places to see bald eagles in the wild. It should be noted that calls in Haines are usually not full-day.